Fluge Global Adventures

- Nick reporting down from the mountain. Part One.

"Unless you try to do something beyond what you have already mastered, you will never grow."

Our 07 adventure to Kilimanjaro in Africa, the largest mountain on the continent, one of the 7 summits of the world, and composed of 3 distinct volcanic formations towering above the African plains was quite an adventure indeed.

I would be remiss if I did not begin by thanking my two tremendous Oregon area trainers: Yelena King and Troy Carter. Without their intense help two hours a day, about six days a week for 11 months, I am sure I could not have undertaken what was about to be a most challenging journey. They were by my side as we spent several weeks traveling to Africa, prepping, and then climbing the mountain.

And although my climb was not without it's share of challenges, Shaun Wallace's Colorado High Altitude Training Room also get's kudos as I experienced zero effects of alitude sickness.

John Hauf, Alpine Ascents, most respected guide (an expatriot living in Chile), and the entire Alpine Ascents team from home base in Seattle were outstanding as any guiding group that I can imagine. Also, the local Chagga and other tribes around Kili - were superpeople! They were stronger, faster, and brighter than any group of people I've seen at any time in my life.

Finally my climbing compatriots, about 16 of them, were all talented, smart, and conditioned individuals who also helped their fellows (and me!) and made for great dinner conversations. From marathoners, to outdoors climbers, and from parasailers to search and rescue people, and from extra-military operations folk to off road bikers - this was quite the team. They all stand apart from other groups of diverse individuals with one goal that bound them together - Kili - the great mountain of Africa.

My thanks also to our families and friends who supported us from state-side. I am grateful to everyone.

This story then told today and tomorrow in a two part post and zine series will delve a little deeper into the details of the actual climb if you are interested.

I remember when I first read about Kili I wondered why only between 40-60% of those who begin the ascent never summit the mountain (Alpine Ascent numbers are much higher at about 90%). I now understand why.

Not only does the mountain loom at 20,000 feet, but it is prone to many whims of nature. Even in the dry season, we were mute witnesses to rains, freezing temperatures, grity winds, snows, sleet, and yes, even the occasional sunburn!

The first days at our hotel in Arusha (a throwback to the Bogart days complete with a casino and in room mosquito nets), made us aware of things to come. We witnessed several earthquakes over a two day period that shook the hotel with relative strength.

Our first climbing day was relatively uneventful. A few hour ride from Arusha to the mountain made for interesting if nervous conversation. We departed on our climb and quickly found ourselves being passed by porters from the local Chagga tribe carrying 100 lbs and more of materials each to help with our adventure. Our 25 lb day packs seemed incidental to the Chagga.

We did move quickly to basecamp at 10,000 feet. About five hours of steady hiking (straight up)! The days warmth at lower altitudes and our expense of energy offset the growing cool temperatures. We sat in our dinner tent and traded stories and enjoyed a great dinner. None of us wanted to return to our damp tents in what was now rainy weather with wind chills sending temps below freezing.

The FGA team had most excellent North Face boundary bags but failed to realize that any cotten within them would quickly become moist and then wet our most precious components - our down sleeping bags and "puffy coats"! Retiring to bed at 10 or 11pm in cold weather to a damp sleeping bag was tough. Night one found many of us questioning if we should even take on another day let alone the mountain for six nights. The freezing nights far outweighed the climb in terms of challenge (in my opinion).

The next several days found more rain, some snow, some clearing and sun (enhanced by less atmosphere), more acclimitization (going higher and returning to sleep lower), good food, great exercise and yet a looming awareness that Summit day lay ahead. We made our final high base camp at about 15,000 feet, had a large lunch and turned in at about 5pm to prepare for an 11pm wakeup call and midnight ascent to the summit. The midnight ascent was necessary so that we could arrive at summit around dawn, be moving when we hit the coldest of temperatures at 4am, and still descend back to high base camp and then once again to our lower base camp by the next night. (That's right, about 18 straight hours of significant incline and then decline to achieve what some think is impossible).

PART TWO - TOMORROW - "The Summit"

Awake at midnight and prepared for the ascent, the teams’ headlamps guided them, until the predawn light reflected off the African plains. Following a distinct ridge, the team approached the crater’s rim, and then traversed northwest along the rim to the main summit at 19,340’, the Uhuru Peak (Mt Kilimanjaro in western terminology). From the peak’s view, the team could see the Bismarck Towers, rock pinnacles along the rim and the hanging Rebman Glaciers.

As the sun rose over Africa, the group indulged in the panorama of incredible views. To the north, with its unique twin summits, stands the second highest mountain on the continent, Mt. Kenya (17,056’/5199m).  The southern exposure reveals the sprawling plains of Tanzania, East Africa, and the Mawenzi Peak.

After enjoying the view from top, the team descended Barafu, packed up camp, and began the traverse down the Mweka route on the southern side of the mountain.

The next morning was unlike any other.  The team awoke below the towering mountain as the sky promised them another exquisite sunrise. The group descended through the lush green landscape of the Mweka route into the thickest jungle they had yet encountered. The team found themselves trekking through primordial environments, with towering 20 foot-tall fern trees that gave it an eerie prehistoric feel.

After reaching the Mweka Gate, the FGA and AA team drove back to Arusha.  After reaching the capitol, the group commemorated their victory over Kilimanjaro with a celebratory dinner.